Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
